Homelite 360 professional chainsaw manual

#Homelite 360 professional chainsaw manual full

You can only get it by reading the full data sheets. Problem is, this data is rarely on the oil container. True synthetic oil will be rated tier IV or tier V. Just has to say 'tier III' on the data sheet. Oil is allowed to be sold as full synthetic even though it made from petro.

When the war was over, a military guy started Amsoil using military-grade synthetic to sell to the general public. That's why the USA military started using it in jet engines during the war. The two big advantages to true synthetic oil is #1 the high flash point (high heat durability) and #2 the consistent viscosity even at cold temps. Synthetic oil first came to our notice in the USA when Hitler was making it during WWII from coal derivitives. So, I guess it boils down to why somebody wants synthetic oil and what they think it is supposed to be. That led me to more research and I then found out about the USA allowing such nonsense, but Europe NOT allowing it. Went down to NAPA and bought some Castrol Syntec that says on the label 'full synthetic.' Got home and downloaded the data-sheet and found out it is made from petroleum, right out of the well. But, I got ticked off one day when I wanted some synthetic oil. I suspect it's all about juggling the meaning of words around and fooling an somewhat uninformed public. In the USA, oil sellers have been given permission to sell oil as 'full synthetic' even when it's made from 100% petroleum. If oil is truly synthetic (tier III) it will have a high flash point.Д®asy. Some petro Shell Rotella 30W has a flash point of 428 degrees F, yet some Stihl two-stroke oil has a low flash point of 168 F. When oil reaches the flash point - it no longer is oil and your engine burns up. To me, metal protection and flash point are the key issues. In the USA, it is legal to call an oil made completely from petro, as 'full synthetic.' Not done in Europe, however -last I checked. Not saw durability.ДЄlso beware of the 'full synthetic' trap. Many of the new low-oil mixes have emissions in mind. Oil lube had not improved as much as some people like to think. I've got saws over 50 years old and some only 1 year old. Too much oil can plug up some spart arrestors also. Many newer saws do not and if you use too much oil, you get a lean mixture. The reality is - if you've got a good air-cooled rated oil, you can run 20-1, or 25-1, or 32-1 in just about anything and be fine - as long as the saw has an adjustable carb. Also allowed 20 to 1 with standard SAE oil, just like Stihl did at that time. When new Homelite called for a preferred mix of 32 to 1 with the special 'Homelite' oil. The latter results in a combination of much of the aforementioned. Other then that, most piston wear problems have been from lack of lube, too little clearance, debris, or overheating. On older saws, for the most part, I've seen it in saws that were converted to breaker-less ignition with cheap kits that resulted in overly advanced timing. I rarely work on the newest and the 'greatest' stuff, so what I see the inside of - is often 15-50 years old (with chainsaws). Especially with newer saws that are probably running higher compression ratios then in the past.

Do they exist? Well yeah, I'm sure they do. I've seen very few chainsaws with detonation problems. Too bad Chrysler didn't have something to stop detonation on their 'electronic lean burn' engines in the 70s. The causes we see today aren't much different.ДЄt least in a car built 100 years ago, the operator could control the detonation with a simple hand-control. The former is not in the combustion chamber.Дetonation has been around as long as internal combustion engines have existed. Big difference between problems on the thrust side of the piston, and problems on the top of the piston. Skirts melt from lack of lube or lack of clearance. But it won't cause piston skirts to melt as I already mentioned. Over-advanced timing, overly high compression-ratio, too lean a mixture, and/or low octane fuel can cause detonation. Why do you think cars used to get 'carbon and valve' jobs as routine maintenance? Why do you think cars built 1902-and a little 'newer' had hand-operated timing-advance controls? 7/8 of my life is already used up and I'm in no hurry to use the rest. I don't need to get older either, but it's apt to happen. I'm aware of all that and don't need more education on the subject.

Homelite 360 professional chainsaw manual